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Thread: Hammond SK1 split not working?

  1. #1
    ppp Pianississmo B3PO's Avatar
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    Hammond SK1 split not working?

    Hi- I just got a SK1 used, a 2014, quite mint, sounds great. But when programming a split ( Ive had many full size hammonds, B3, B2, C3, so I like to a/b sounds, and set things up to function similarly as possible) the manual says to hit "split" button- but nothing happens. Checked the menu window, verfied the B2 default split point hasnt moved. but, hit "lower" in the left side "Drawbar" departmewnt, and the drawbars are not active at all in "lower" switch, only "upper". The other "test" is back on the right side, the "octave" department, pressing "lower", "down or "up", makes no difference to the lower part. So, seems I have a non functioning "split" button?
    Id really like to have an octave higher, no Chorus/ Vibrato left hand part, and B2 seems a fine place. Anyone got any ideas? Asking around, I heard these are pretty bulletproof, if you take care of them. But the manual is so shabbily put together it quite possible some arcane function is hidden-
    Also, Ive got what many consider the best sounding B3 ever, a '61 red beast- its been played by Jimmy Smith, Jack McDuff, Booker T, Dr. Lonnie Smith, very fire breathing but stock, no solid state crap. I have the Jim Alfredson custom stuff, but Id like to "clone " my B, see much about custom sounds but no mention of this service, yet it exists, and is a free download. Ill take a B over a C2 any day. Its the scanner vibrato that sounds so different on my B, wonder if just that can be modeled.

  2. #2
    ppp Pianississmo 0rganist's Avatar
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    Are you in Manual mode? Or trying to use an Extra voice? Try Manual first, make sure the Solo, Lower or Upper indicators are off in the Extra Voice section. Perhaps you can try doing a complete Reset to start from fresh.

  3. #3
    mf Mezzo-Forte JJMcS's Avatar
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    1 members found this post helpful.
    Watch the screen when you power on and make sure it displays SK-1. There is a button combination that toggles the OS between SK-1 and SK-2. If it thinks it is an SK-2, Split doesn't work. If it displays SK-2, power off, press and hold the Upper and Pedal Drawbar buttons and power on.

    The button combination to tell an SK it is a -2 is Pedal and Lower.


    Good luck.

  4. #4
    mf Mezzo-Forte JJMcS's Avatar
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    I just re-read your post and was reminded of this part which I forgot to comment on in my earlier reply.

    Quote Originally Posted by B3PO View Post
    I have the Jim Alfredson custom stuff, but Id like to "clone " my B, see much about custom sounds but no mention of this service, yet it exists, and is a free download. Ill take a B over a C2 any day. Its the scanner vibrato that sounds so different on my B, wonder if just that can be modeled.
    There is no service which will clone your Hammond for you. You will have to dial in the tone yourself. The basic procedure is described on pages 87 - 89. You will need to go through your Hammond and select one drawbar/note at a time corresponding to the tonewheel you are trying to match on your SK-1 and adjust the SK-1's tonewheel parameters until the two sound alike. It is best to try and have the output of both routed through headphones.

    The tonewheel sets you have found were made by people adjusting their own SK (or XK-3c) and saving/posting their tonewheel set file online.


    Here is the process I used to adjust the tonewheels in my XK-3c and later in my SK-1:

    The original PDF and tonewheel sets for my XK-3c and SK-1 are in the files section of the Yahoo Hammond_XK-3 group.

    Below is what I did to tweak a set of tonewheels.
    Something you might try is to tweak a set of tonewheels. I set B Type #4 based on how the manual describes the way the tone changes as each parameter is adjusted. For example, I adjusted Cutoff Freq. - LPF (pg. 65 #5) down until there was very little leakage noise but not so that the volume started to drop. Using headphones really helps to hear the subtle changes. (Turning the resonance up close to 100 really makes the point where the noise is gone easy to hear. I have been turning up the resonance, dialing in the LPF and then turning the res. back down.) I adjusted the Cutoff Freq. - HPF (#7) so that there was very little motor noise but not so that the sound thinned out. (Maybe what I end up with is what a B-3 sounded like when it was relatively new.)

    Each tonewheel/parameter has a range of about 4 or 5 that fits those descriptions. As I went up the tonewheels the setting that sounded right (to me) usually increased some. The following is a list of some of the tonewheels so that you can see what I mean. Although the LPF on tonewheels 37 and 49 are both set at 74 for example, TW 41 might be 77, and TW 46 might be 70. Also, the level on tonewheels 93 - 96 is set at -2. Setting them at 0 seemed to make them too bright. (I have since added a little resonance.)

    TW1:1C Lev. 0, LPF 54, Res. 0, HPF 10
    TW2:1C# Lev. 0, LPF 57, Res. 0, HPF 10
    TW3:1D Lev. 0, LPF 52, Res. 0, HPF 10
    TW13:2C Lev. 0, LPF 55, Res. 0, HPF 29
    TW25:3C Lev. 0, LPF 60, Res. 0, HPF 40
    TW37:4C Lev. 0, LPF 74, Res. 0, HPF 56
    TW49:5C Lev. 0, LPF 74, Res. 0, HPF 73
    TW61:6C Lev. 0, LPF 88, Res. 0, HPF 84
    TW73:7C Lev. 0, LPF 106, Res. 0, HPF 100
    TW85:8C Lev. 0, LPF 108, Res. 0, HPF 111
    TW96:8B Lev. -2, LPF 116, Res. 0, HPF 121

    To get to the top and bottom tonewheels by using the drawbars, turn the foldback off. You can get to them via the knob as well. Any of the settings I chose probably sounded about the same if the setting was +/- 1 or 2. This kind of "cleaned up" the tone of each note and although it really didn't change the tone when playing single notes very much, (holding down a note and changing tonewheel sets from 1 to 4 doesn't produce a big difference - but it is obvious, there seems to be more substance to the tone) it did have an effect on how the notes in a chord blend together. The other thing it did is it improved (to me) the tone of the overdrive. It reduced the high freq. buzz and gave it more "beef". This is probably the biggest change that the tweaking produced.

    Another experiment you might try with TW set #5 is to turn the Lev. to +2 on all but the top 3 (or so) tonewheels. This really affects the tone of the overdrive. I have not changed the LPF and HPF settings on this TW set yet, but I did change the Res. setting to 0 when it was above that per the note on pg. 65. I didn't notice any distortion when the overdrive knob was turned down. (I have since set this set of TW's LPF and HPF settings similar to the ones above.)

    Good luck.

  5. #5
    ppp Pianississmo SK1ski's Avatar
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    Thanks, all! I knew there was more info than the "Manual" offers. I did the same with my VK7, and 8, set up next to B3, and tweaked away, it did improve things, but I was thinking if companies made physical models of an organ, I have the one to do it. But without millions, I should be content with a great sounding little axe!

  6. #6
    ppp Pianississmo SK1ski's Avatar
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    Question Split not working

    Quote Originally Posted by JJMcS View Post
    I just re-read your post and was reminded of this part which I forgot to comment on in my earlier reply.



    There is no service which will clone your Hammond for you. You will have to dial in the tone yourself. The basic procedure is described on pages 87 - 89. You will need to go through your Hammond and select one drawbar/note at a time corresponding to the tonewheel you are trying to match on your SK-1 and adjust the SK-1's tonewheel parameters until the two sound alike. It is best to try and have the output of both routed through headphones.

    The tonewheel sets you have found were made by people adjusting their own SK (or XK-3c) and saving/posting their tonewheel set file online.


    Here is the process I used to adjust the tonewheels in my XK-3c and later in my SK-1:

    The original PDF and tonewheel sets for my XK-3c and SK-1 are in the files section of the Yahoo Hammond_XK-3 group.

    Below is what I did to tweak a set of tonewheels.
    Something you might try is to tweak a set of tonewheels. I set B Type #4 based on how the manual describes the way the tone changes as each parameter is adjusted. For example, I adjusted Cutoff Freq. - LPF (pg. 65 #5) down until there was very little leakage noise but not so that the volume started to drop. Using headphones really helps to hear the subtle changes. (Turning the resonance up close to 100 really makes the point where the noise is gone easy to hear. I have been turning up the resonance, dialing in the LPF and then turning the res. back down.) I adjusted the Cutoff Freq. - HPF (#7) so that there was very little motor noise but not so that the sound thinned out. (Maybe what I end up with is what a B-3 sounded like when it was relatively new.)

    Each tonewheel/parameter has a range of about 4 or 5 that fits those descriptions. As I went up the tonewheels the setting that sounded right (to me) usually increased some. The following is a list of some of the tonewheels so that you can see what I mean. Although the LPF on tonewheels 37 and 49 are both set at 74 for example, TW 41 might be 77, and TW 46 might be 70. Also, the level on tonewheels 93 - 96 is set at -2. Setting them at 0 seemed to make them too bright. (I have since added a little resonance.)

    TW1:1C Lev. 0, LPF 54, Res. 0, HPF 10
    TW2:1C# Lev. 0, LPF 57, Res. 0, HPF 10
    TW3:1D Lev. 0, LPF 52, Res. 0, HPF 10
    TW13:2C Lev. 0, LPF 55, Res. 0, HPF 29
    TW25:3C Lev. 0, LPF 60, Res. 0, HPF 40
    TW37:4C Lev. 0, LPF 74, Res. 0, HPF 56
    TW49:5C Lev. 0, LPF 74, Res. 0, HPF 73
    TW61:6C Lev. 0, LPF 88, Res. 0, HPF 84
    TW73:7C Lev. 0, LPF 106, Res. 0, HPF 100
    TW85:8C Lev. 0, LPF 108, Res. 0, HPF 111
    TW96:8B Lev. -2, LPF 116, Res. 0, HPF 121

    To get to the top and bottom tonewheels by using the drawbars, turn the foldback off. You can get to them via the knob as well. Any of the settings I chose probably sounded about the same if the setting was +/- 1 or 2. This kind of "cleaned up" the tone of each note and although it really didn't change the tone when playing single notes very much, (holding down a note and changing tonewheel sets from 1 to 4 doesn't produce a big difference - but it is obvious, there seems to be more substance to the tone) it did have an effect on how the notes in a chord blend together. The other thing it did is it improved (to me) the tone of the overdrive. It reduced the high freq. buzz and gave it more "beef". This is probably the biggest change that the tweaking produced.

    Another experiment you might try with TW set #5 is to turn the Lev. to +2 on all but the top 3 (or so) tonewheels. This really affects the tone of the overdrive. I have not changed the LPF and HPF settings on this TW set yet, but I did change the Res. setting to 0 when it was above that per the note on pg. 65. I didn't notice any distortion when the overdrive knob was turned down. (I have since set this set of TW's LPF and HPF settings similar to the ones above.)

    Good luck.
    Thanks for making clear what I suspected, that "Clone" is an inaccurate term. This process is much less dramatic, powerful or creative- it is called "editing a computer program", not "cloning". Cloning would be going deep, "what are the waveforms, anomalies, transient attacks, micro details? not "turning up digital distortion", which sounds nothing like the sweet analog harmonic distortion. But back to my "No Split function" problem, I verified it is an SK1 that knows it is, on start up. All preprogrammed (P) "splits" behave as "upper drawbar set only". I look forward to utilizing these features, as I play different instruments differently. But once again, the engineering does not quite reach the consumer, out of lack of funds for programmers to reveal verbally in documents easily accessible, allowing troublesome tinkering, warranty/ help line calls? I guess its "hard reset" time, and maybe there goes any stuff Ive already stumbled into while trying to make sense of manual, the save/ load USB flash drive,I guess you just have to believe will work! The tiny display is unsuited for that much info, Ive just lost so much digital data in the past due to unknown forces, that is the last thing Id rather do.

  7. #7
    mf Mezzo-Forte JJMcS's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SK1ski View Post
    Thanks for making clear what I suspected, that "Clone" is an inaccurate term. This process is much less dramatic, powerful or creative- it is called "editing a computer program", not "cloning". Cloning would be going deep, "what are the waveforms, anomalies, transient attacks, micro details? not "turning up digital distortion", which sounds nothing like the sweet analog harmonic distortion. But back to my "No Split function" problem, I verified it is an SK1 that knows it is, on start up. All preprogrammed (P) "splits" behave as "upper drawbar set only". I look forward to utilizing these features, as I play different instruments differently. But once again, the engineering does not quite reach the consumer, out of lack of funds for programmers to reveal verbally in documents easily accessible, allowing troublesome tinkering, warranty/ help line calls? I guess its "hard reset" time, and maybe there goes any stuff Ive already stumbled into while trying to make sense of manual, the save/ load USB flash drive,I guess you just have to believe will work! The tiny display is unsuited for that much info, Ive just lost so much digital data in the past due to unknown forces, that is the last thing Id rather do.
    First, regarding "Editing a computer program", that's exactly what you would be doing if you make the effort. The SK-1 is a computer. If Hammond provided a parameter to adjust every possible nuance of tone no one would use them. The parameters available for tweaking a set of tonewheels has provided quite a few people with the ability to adjust their XK-3c, XK-1c and/or their SK's tonewheels to sound like what to them was an exact match (yes even, weaker, louder, noisier individual tonewheels). The tonewheel sets I developed for my '3c and SK-1 easily took me >4 hours each and I was just adjusting for the most clean and powerful tone I could get. The time it takes to dial in the volume, signal strength, frequency cutoff, leakage, motor rumble and resonance for each tonewheel to match each tonewheel of the vintage Hammond is even longer. Regarding Overdrive, you might try the "EPAmp" option (Pg. 92 #3). It has more growl than the "Tube" option. Also, set Overdrive - Expression (#2) to EX-OD. This option increases the amount of overdrive along with Expression as the pedal is floored.


    Back to the missing Split. See the note in the Troubleshooting section (Pg. 134) - check MIDI In mode (Pg. 114 #2). The option that would probably work best for your needs is Sequence, it may be set to one of the others listed on pg. 134 that disables the Split function. Selecting the Basic Template (Pg. 114 #1) will set that parameter and a number of others (Pg. 138). Templates are not specific parameters in and of themselves. They just set a specific group of other parameters to particular options that usually are set in those ways for particular setups. Any of the included parameters can be changed individually as needed. Whenever the Templates menu page is turned to the first Template on the list is displayed. So go to that page, Basic should be displayed, even though it is, press enter. That will set everything in that Template to what is listed on Pg. 138. You can also just set MIDI In to Sequence if it isn't now and everything else regarding MIDI is working fine for you.

    Good luck.
    Last edited by JJMcS; 04-24-2018 at 08:39 PM.

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