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Thread: L103 Cleanup

  1. #1
    ppp Pianississmo einstein magoo's Avatar
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    L103 Cleanup

    Brought this organ home last Friday and just digging in to some cleanup. Could use a little advice.

    Will check some component codes to get a better idea of dating, but from first glance, SN indicates maybe around 1962, and this unit is pre brilliance switch. SN 27710.

    Power chord is in amazingly good condition for the age of the organ, but does not appear to have been replaced. Will look closer under the amp chassis as I move forward but looks ok for now. Not crumbling or bad looking at all on the surface.

    All functions work. Really good and quiet key action. Just playing, switching, and giving drawbars a good workout has brought the volume up and cleaned up the tone. Drawbars are still a little scratchy but I don't think they're going to need full disassembly and tear down / rebuild to get them cleaned up. Thinking contact cleaner and a little lube will do the trick?

    Unit had not been oiled for likely 15 years or more but generator spun up and worked quietly. On first run last week I timed the spin down at about 6 seconds. Oiled per annual instructions last Saturday and by Tuesday spin down increased to 8 seconds. Going to oil again today as I'm sure she is still a little thirsty.

    Amp runs quietly (even at pedal down) and delivers good volume from the internal amp / speakers. There is a bit of hum at full pedal, but not extreme. I would expect some increase in noise floor with pedal down, not playing keys. Is this normal?

    Just getting ready to dig in to clean internals of dust and cleanup all connectors and maybe tube sockets. Starting with basic dust removal, then getting into the works. Not too sure how to disconnect the molex connectors, one from another, as they have little tabs on the side and I don't know if they are to be squeezed together or pushed apart to remove the connection? Since I am having no problem with signals or amplification I am wondering whether to even worry about cleaning up the connectors and tube sockets is going to be necessary, kind of if it ain't broke, don't fix it kind of thinking?

    The biggest reason for this post is to ask advice on the motor run capacitor. I have read some horror stories about these caps and ordered and have a replacement on hand. What should be a simple swap out looks kind of difficult as the wires running to the existing cap have very little slack, and its in a pretty tight little area for my clumsy hands. I am not sure but I think this capacitor may have been replaced once before. There is a code on the existing capacitor. Code is 86-33. My questions are; does this indicate a capacitor manufactured in 1986? And if so, this cap would be roughly 32 years old (at least fresher than 56 years old if this is indeed a 1962 organ). There is no indication of problems with the cap or with motor run speed or with any bulging or anything like that. Should I still be concerned and swap this capacitor at this time??

    I read a lot on here of the merits of Deoxit and have checked locally at Lowe's, Home Depot, Walmart, and Ace Hardware and haven't found any yet. I went ahead and bought some CRC QD Cleaner and CRC Power Lube but not sure if these products, used carefully avoiding overspray, would be harmful for cleaning tab switch contacts and cleaning / lubing drawbars. What is your advice here?

    Until I hear your replies, I will focus on the general dust removal and cleanup on the Hammond and on the 145 (which also works flawlessly and sounds fantastic)

    I would appreciate any advice on these issues. Thanks!

  2. #2
    fff Fortississimo enor's Avatar
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    1 members found this post helpful.
    Yes, replace the cap. Not only is it a reliability issue, it's a safety issue as well. And since you have a new one at hand it's really a no-brainer.

    If the wires have too little slack - swap them out for longer ones.
    Current organs: AV, BC, A-100
    Current Leslies: 22H, 142, 147, 760
    Organs in the past: L-100 (several), M-100 (x2), T-100, E-100, CV

  3. #3
    ff Fortissimo Sweet Pete's Avatar
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    Nice aquisition,and with a 145! Yeah,change the cap.Was able to source one locally at an HVAC supply house.
    This is the 'early' L101 I dragged back back with a 251 last January.Needed a motor too!
    Pictured here with the 'Wes Garland' inspired 760 setup!

    Ran a lead from the motor housing to the body of the perc preamp to get rid of the 'ticking'.
    Clipped out a few bypass caps to 'open it up' and let the mojo out!
    A100/251 A102/222 B2/147 BCV/122 M102/145 M111/145 M3/142 L101/760 L133/760 T212/770 ,147/145/770/HL822
    Nord C2D, Nord Stage II EX88,Yamaha MOX6,Roland JX-8P w/PG800,Roland VR-760,Behringer X32,Yorkville PS1's
    Yorkville powered/unpowered speakers/Soundcraft LX7II-24,A&H MixWiz 16/3,3-Furman PQ-3's,SWR Pro200,Carvin 410HF

  4. #4
    ppp Pianississmo einstein magoo's Avatar
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    Thanks enor and Sweet Pete! You urged me over the line on the cap and it does give peace of mind knowing it's done. Only took a few minutes actually. Didn't solder the new one in. I had right sized sta-cons and and crimped them tightly for secure connections. The capacitor cap (top thingy) looks a little cockeyed as the sta-cons take up just a little more room in there, but it is good tight electrical connections and electrically insulated well, and the cap is tighter fitting than it looks. Used a little scotch 33+ around each of the connection points just for added safety.

    IMG_1036[1].jpg

    If you guys get a moment, would you comment on my other questions regarding the molex connectors and CRC for cleaning and lube, etc?

    Thanks again! magoo

  5. #5
    pp Pianissimo Earnest's Avatar
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    1 members found this post helpful.
    The capacitor you asked about was made in the 33rd week of 1986. Probably in early August. I think I bought my Deoxit from The Guitar Center.

  6. #6
    p Piano Jyvoipabo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by einstein magoo View Post
    I read a lot on here of the merits of Deoxit and have checked locally at Lowe's, Home Depot, Walmart, and Ace Hardware and haven't found any yet. I went ahead and bought some CRC QD Cleaner and CRC Power Lube but not sure if these products, used carefully avoiding overspray, would be harmful for cleaning tab switch contacts and cleaning / lubing drawbars. What is your advice here?
    Hello

    Most of the key contacts are made of palladium self cleaning contacts.
    It cleans by itself while playing. Don't use miracle cleaner.

    Drawbars are often plenty of old dust glued in grease.
    Miracle cleaner solve but do not remove dirt.
    The best way is to remove the drawbars assy and clean.

    Clean tube pins and tighten sockets.
    Idem for Cinch connectors.

    JP

    The basic document to read is the service manual : "Hammond-2587.pdf"
    If possible, check the V12 5U4 (Rectifier tube).

  7. #7
    ppp Pianississmo einstein magoo's Avatar
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    Bump...

    Anyone offer some comments on how to separate the molex connectors. I'm not stupid just stumped on how to open up the connections to get at the pins to clean them. I've searched molex connectors this forum and the search returned more than 180 threads. Lots of advice on cleaning them but no comments on how to disconnect them without breaking them. Help? Please

  8. #8
    ff Fortissimo Sweet Pete's Avatar
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    You too Magoo? Tough love the first time......you'll get it! Have a look at the Tonewheel General Hospital parts catalog under 'Leslie' or 'connectors' to see how they are different.
    Molex pix are your friends! Have a look at the side with the 'standoff' and pinch it while you pull. Very tight fit for something that corrodes!
    And thank Rick@TWGH for his contributions!
    A100/251 A102/222 B2/147 BCV/122 M102/145 M111/145 M3/142 L101/760 L133/760 T212/770 ,147/145/770/HL822
    Nord C2D, Nord Stage II EX88,Yamaha MOX6,Roland JX-8P w/PG800,Roland VR-760,Behringer X32,Yorkville PS1's
    Yorkville powered/unpowered speakers/Soundcraft LX7II-24,A&H MixWiz 16/3,3-Furman PQ-3's,SWR Pro200,Carvin 410HF

  9. #9
    ppp Pianississmo curiousart's Avatar
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    When you're ready to tackle the drawbars, check out Bobmann107's invaluable video on Youtube. I just did the drawbars on my A100. There were lots of inoperative drawbars due to 56 years of grease and crud. They work perfectly now (also had to resolder many half-broken drawbar wires). I used Deoxit D5, and scrubbed lightly with a toothbrush. I opted to not use any grease or lube afterward--I'm glad I did. They really work just fine without it, and I'm sure that grease would be a crud magnet over time.

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