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Thread: DR20 tone cabinet (oil reverb question)

  1. #11
    ff Fortissimo Orgrinder010's Avatar
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    Re: DR20 tone cabinet (oil reverb question)



    This one has been retrofitted, and unfortunately the tremolo circuit has been disabled. I'm still only going to call it an AV though! [] </p>

    </p>
    ~1936 Hammond AV - Leslie 122 & PR40~ ~1954 Wurlitzer ElectroStatic 4602 - Leslie 125~

  2. #12
    ff Fortissimo Clavier's Avatar
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    Re: DR20 tone cabinet (oil reverb question)



    [quote user="Hammondlover"]Sure its still an A! You can add a spoiler to a Camaro, and it's still a Camaro.[/quote]</p>

    </p>

    I like that one.</p>

  3. #13


    Re: DR20 tone cabinet (oil reverb question)

    The original builder plate by the Hammond Clock Company lists it as an A,


    but a decal on the Chorus Vibrato lists it as a AV when that was added at some point....



    So both designations would work although yes technically it is an AV.

  4. #14
    ppp Pianississmo robert brown's Avatar
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    Re: DR20 tone cabinet (oil reverb question)

    hello i once heard that the reverb sounds better without the oil because it is brighter.perhaps the oil is to dampen down that nasty trebel.however the best reverb i ever heard was an oil bath reverb on juff becke firsr album truth,the final cut an accoustic steel string version of greensleeves.gale jones at puget sound organs Everett washington can probably help you with you tech problembs

  5. #15


    Re: DR20 tone cabinet (oil reverb question)

    update: i did put the oil in the 4 tubes (3 tall and 1 short), 3 inches from the top in the short tube and 1 inch in the others. But there is no reverb 'affect' at all. When i turn on the selector from off to 1 2 or 3 it just starts hissing. i guess maybe a wire is touching somewhere yet.

    After just oiling that thing I can see why hammond went away from that type of unit, even if it did work. I'm going to investigate it more in the future as I'd like to try to get that DR20 back to operation completely, but in the meantime as noted, the DR20 sounds great even without the reverb.
    And I can always add reverb digitally to my files after I record them anyhow.

    I did find that card that describes the process. I intend to scan that in and post it soon!

  6. #16
    mf Mezzo-Forte bluetantra's Avatar
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    Re: DR20 tone cabinet (oil reverb question)



    A few quotes from The Manual regarding the fluid-type reverb unit: </p><p style="font-style: italic; font-weight: bold;">"When a tone cabinet is moved even a few feet, the reverberation unit must be locked to avoid excessive vibration of the springs. If the cabinet is to be tilted, the unit must be removed, to avoid spilling the fluid, and replaced after moving. If the unit itself cannot be kept upright while moving, the fluid must be drained and later replaced. Hammond damping fluid is a grade especially selected for this purpose, and no other kind should be used."</p>

    My Hammond Guru reportedly used baby oil in these units at times, not only because he liked the scent, but because it was more readily available in some rural areas.</p><p style="font-style: italic; font-weight: bold;">"Failure to lock the unit when moving usually necessitates replacement of the complete driver assembly or the upper or lower lever assemblies which are a part of it. When parts are replaced, the springs must be balanced as follows: In a complete driver assembly ordered for replacement, the wire passing through the unit from the upper lever to the stirrup is not soldered. It should be left unsoldered until this adjustment is made. Replace the driver assembly and attach all the springs; check and adjust the single damping tube, if necessary, to make the upper lever assembly level. Then solder the wire to the small tube passing through the voice coil. When only the upper or lower lever assembly is replaced, the wire need not be unsoldered, but the upper level must be made level by adjusting the single tube."</p>

    Text of the aforementioned Caution tag in farmboy's earlier post:</p><p style="font-style: italic; font-weight: bold;">Caution- This lever operates the locking plates which serve as a protection to the parts of this device. This unit must be unlocked, and fluid must be put into tubes, before the tone cabinet is used.</p><p style="font-style: italic; font-weight: bold;">Important- Before unlocking, after shipment or transportation of the cabinet or reverberation unit, slip cover up to make sure that the steel tape which links the spring to the crystal is properly attached at both ends. </p><p style="font-style: italic; font-weight: bold;">1. Slip reverberation unit cover down as far as possible. Assemble fluid filler by inserting short end of stem into suction bulb, and use it to fill three long tubes with "Hammond Damping Fluid." Tube size is marked on each bottle. Put entire bottle of fluid into each long tube; this should fill tube to about 1" from top.
    </p><p style="font-style: italic; font-weight: bold;">2. Reverberation effect depends upon precise amount of fluid in short tube. Lower fluid level gives longer reverberation time, and higher level gives shorter time. Recommended level is 3 1/4" from top of tube. Insert filler into fourth bottle and draw up all fluid. Insert filler stem into short tube until collar rests on edge of tube, squeeze bulb fully, release pressure, and leave in place for 10 seconds to draw up excess fluid. This adjusts fluid level to exactly 3 1/4" from top of tube.</p><p style="font-style: italic; font-weight: bold;">3. To unlock, move lever sidewise to unlatch, and pull out until re-latched.</p><p style="font-style: italic; font-weight: bold;">4. To lock, move lever sidewise to unlatch, and push in until re-latched.</p><p style="font-style: italic;"><span style="font-weight: bold;">UNIT MUST ALWAYS BE LOCKED BEFORE THE CABINET IS MOVE</span>D</p>

    Just my two bits, but I'd first check the attachment of the spring ends and also check for continuity throughout the length of the reverb spring. Hope some of this helps.</p>

    Oh, one last thought.... as the cloth bag surrounding the reverb unit becomes fragile with age and saturated with dust, someone handy with a sewing machine should be able to stitch up a replacement, possibly using velcro fasteners for ease of access rather than the drawstring on the originals.
    </p>

    John
    </p>

  7. #17
    ppp Pianississmo Steelruss's Avatar
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    1 members found this post helpful.
    Quote Originally Posted by NYCFarmboy View Post
    . . . but its missing the
    card on the back of
    the speaker . . .
    Left.jpg
    Right.jpg

  8. #18
    fff Fortississimo jdoc's Avatar
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    nice oldest recovered post i have seen
    1956 M3, (2)51 Leslie under upgrade, 860 (130 powered)Leslie with Preamp, S08 Yamaha and two K2000S, Young Chang spinet, Korg Trinity
    and Korg KRONOS X73
    Looking for that mythical cheap or free A, BV, CV, C2, C3 or A100 but wouldn't say no to a free B3

  9. #19
    pp Pianissimo Ang's Avatar
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    I've got a question I have a Dr 20 tone cab also have 2 issues with it 1 the reverb does not work at all spring dangling on outsit of it and Dont know where it goes on the bottom of it and 2 thing is this is what I can't figure out the amp..in it plays fine....when cold when its on for 20 or so min it Gits really low and 1 tube in the amp is glowing red on one of the plates the regular tube is really hot too its hooked to a CV Hammond and every tube in the pre amp is good as well as the tone cab so....I've checked caps in the amp I've checked resistors in it there all fine so what to do I can't figure it out.....

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