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Thread: Building a working Leslie from an empty cabinet

  1. #1

    Building a working Leslie from an empty cabinet

    I have been considering obtaining an empty Leslie cabinet and building a working Leslie. Does anybody know where I could get a parts list or an illustrated breakdown guide? I might use something like this to fix a non-working Leslie.

    Motivation: trying to replace my broken MS Pro-145 on a very limited budget! I don't know if this project would be cost effective, but you ALL KNOW how hard it is to find a low priced Leslie!

    Thanks everyone.

    JL

  2. #2
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    Welcome to the forums!

    We did this with our first 31H (actually a 31W). It's actually more cost effective if you're patient and good at sniping on eBay. We got the empty cab (great shape) from a guy who had tons of stuff. All that was in it was the lower baffle. My dad then bought the upper horn section from the same guy (horn, bearing, driver, 2-speed motor) for 60 or 80 bucks plus a free 15" speaker from some wrecked Conn, built the upper shelf, got a 2-speeder on eBay for maybe 25 (including shipping), a crossover on eBay (maybe 12?), and found an awesome deal on a 21H amp (110 including shipping). He built the lower motor mount and upper platform from scrap wood, so it didn't cost a dime, and then we had the amp converted to a non-FC type and I wired in the speakers and motors. All in all, it was cheaper than most 31Hs we've seen, and it has 2-speed capabilities. The thing sounds damn good, looks better than most 31s we've seen, and feels great since we got it as a big empty cab.

    So, eBay and time will be your best friends here. You'll need to be patient enough to wait auctions out; if the prices goes too high, don't chase it. There's always more of this stuff out there. Some bastard rips a Leslie apart everyday. I hate to encourage that behavior by buying the parts from him, but if it means I can resurrect a different dead Leslie it's OK by me.


    As for a parts list, here are the big items:
    - Amplifier. You can get a non-Leslie amplifier, many will say they sound just fine, but just as many (or more!) will say the only real sound comes from a real Leslie amp. Keep an eye out for one-speed models (45/21/31/etc) because these often seem to go for lower prices and can very easily be changed to two-speed in a variety of ways. If you can solder, all the better. Be aware that some models require a Field Coil speaker, if you don't have the cash for one of those you'll need to replace it with the proper high-power resistor. That'll add a few bucks, but nothing too bad, and I believe it should work just fine.

    - Crossover. Very easy to find, I don't think we've paid more than 20 bucks for a crossover including shipping. Oftentimes they need a recap job, but that's just a few more bucks, and usually it works alright until you get around to doing that.
    - Horn section. This is the big one. You need the horn, the bearing assembly, and the driver. The driver can be different models if you have trouble finding a good V21 (original driver), but there's usually an auction or two with the complete upper setup. This will probably set you back, because the bearing assembly is pretty costly.

    - Lower speaker. Usually a 15". If you get an older amp, you'll need a Field Coil speaker, which will set you back quite a bit! There are several popular substitutes out there, sometimes you can find a good deal on Leslie 15" speakers. I suppose if you want the original sound, that's what you should go with. But as my tech friend says "they only used em because they could get em cheap!" Search around and you'll find lots of suggestions on different lower-priced speakers to go with.

    - Lower baffle. This one I don't know much about, since all of our Leslies came with theirs intact. I'm sure there's a few on eBay, you'll also need all the mounting hardware for it, and you'll need to make sure it'll fit your cabinet (don't know if there are different versions). A few places sell these new as exact replicas, but that'll set you back a bit more. You'll also probably want to get new bearings for them, all of our old Leslies rumbled in the low end because the old bearings allowed that thing to rattle around. Again, not too much added on, I think they're 15 bucks from tonewheelgeneral.com

    - Motors. If you go one speed, you'll have no trouble finding cheap motors. If you go two-speed, you may have to wait, but you shouldn't have to spend a fortune on a pair of 2-speeders.


    Did I miss anything?




    Hope that helps!
    Keyboards: 1972 Fender Rhodes Stage 73, M-111, A-100, M2 Desk(!), B3!
    Spinny things: Wurlitzer Tone Cabs (500 and 420), PR-40, 31W, 31H, chopped 31H, 125 (empty cabinet), 30A!!!

  3. #3
    Moderator Brendon Wright's Avatar
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    I reckon you covered it all!
    The beauty with the one speed motors is that you can use a footswitch and use the expressive coast up and down instead of a regular chorale. You can hover around the same speed, but it's so much more dynamic.
    I only use chorale when my foot's busy.
    1959 C3 and PR40
    1964 M101
    1967ish Leslie 122
    1975 T500 (modded..chopped, and reassembled!)
    DIY 760 FrankenLeslie/rat hideout
    1992 Korg 01W/fd
    1992 G&L S-500 geetar
    1990 Jansen GMF150 amp.
    Yamaha electric Harmonium (early 80's?)
    Rhodes MkII stage piano - borrowed (Now returned. Now I'm sad.)
    And I touched a 1958 M3 once.

  4. #4
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    Good! I wrote it when I was pretty tired but there isn't too much in these things to complicate them. I've actually had my 31H without lower motors (fast or slow) for a while now and like it. It doesn't sound as impressive as when all the motors are in, but it has an interesting tone. Sometimes it doesn't feel like it's ramping up though. I'm planning on adding the wiring for those motors, then wiring a 'killall' setting to the side-of-cabinet switch. That way I can play with two speed or with the motors off. I've been toying with the idea of the killall switch being for just the lower motors or all 4. Might try both.


    ... Sorry for getting off topic, in my nature =P
    Keyboards: 1972 Fender Rhodes Stage 73, M-111, A-100, M2 Desk(!), B3!
    Spinny things: Wurlitzer Tone Cabs (500 and 420), PR-40, 31W, 31H, chopped 31H, 125 (empty cabinet), 30A!!!

  5. #5
    Quote Originally Posted by wannjl View Post
    I have been considering obtaining an empty Leslie cabinet and building a working Leslie. Does anybody know where I could get a parts list or an illustrated breakdown guide? I might use something like this to fix a non-working Leslie.
    You'll find lots of technical info on the whole range of Leslies here:

    http://www.captain-foldback.com/Lesl...ie_manuals.htm
    -------

    Hammond S-6 #72421 currently undergoing restoration.
    Hammond M-102 #21000 and Leslie 147 #F7453 in the queue.

  6. #6
    Member Sweet Pete's Avatar
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    After over a year of scrounging and procuring the parts to complete a 122,I realized I would probably never even get a chance to use it.By then I was in $400CDN and countless hours of my time.
    It is currently making it's way to NZ,on the Kon-Tiki.......for someone else without a real tube Leslie 122 to enjoy.
    I started with an empty cabinet,and x-over.......patience and persistence is the only way to complete one.
    Now that the newer re-issue 122's and 147's are starting to have amp/relay issues........is even a better reason to go with a 1960's version.Every tech I've talked to about the newer ones says the same thing........"They sure aren't made as well"........

  7. #7

    Smile

    What I did with my first try was using a 315 model as a donor. They're real cheap and worth it to use its internals to make something better.
    From it you can use the horn with driver, the motors and its power supply, the 12" bass speaker (I used a 15" instead) and the 11 pin connector.

    I used a new power amp and active crossover instead of those from the 315 and made a new 15" drum based on the 12" rotors I use on my other products.

    Including building the cabinet, it took me 4 days or so and the result is great.
    I used it on an outdoor gig last week, and finally have the full sound outdoors that I have never had in the past.

    My guess is that you would be able to do it for some $500 excluding the cabinet.

    por500.png
    Nico

    A100 with Leslie 251
    B3000 with Leslie 822
    B300 conversion
    E262 conversion
    Concorde

  8. #8
    Good idea. Nice job!
    -------

    Hammond S-6 #72421 currently undergoing restoration.
    Hammond M-102 #21000 and Leslie 147 #F7453 in the queue.

  9. #9
    Off the top of my head:

    Drum (with spingle grommets).
    Lower drum bearing assy.
    Upper drum bearing assy.
    Upper drum bearing assy. strap.
    Spindle & pulley assembly.
    Lower Belt.
    Woofer with mounting screws.
    Lower motor stack (with mounting plate, bolts, and power cords).
    Horn.
    Driver with horn bearing assembly, spacer ring, and mounting screws.
    Upper belt.
    Upper belt tensioner.
    Upper motor stack with mounting brackets and power cords.
    Crossover with mounting widgetry.
    Amplifier.
    Speaker wiring.
    Misc. hardware.

  10. #10
    Moderator Brendon Wright's Avatar
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    Spingle Grommets is a very nice combination of words.
    I wonder if I can use it six times today in conversation?
    1959 C3 and PR40
    1964 M101
    1967ish Leslie 122
    1975 T500 (modded..chopped, and reassembled!)
    DIY 760 FrankenLeslie/rat hideout
    1992 Korg 01W/fd
    1992 G&L S-500 geetar
    1990 Jansen GMF150 amp.
    Yamaha electric Harmonium (early 80's?)
    Rhodes MkII stage piano - borrowed (Now returned. Now I'm sad.)
    And I touched a 1958 M3 once.

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