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Thread: Realigning keys

  1. #1
    Member Guitarbro's Avatar
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    Realigning keys

    While cleaning the manuals for my A-102 I took apart the keys to the lower manual thinking it would make it easier. now that I have put the manual back together the keys are misaligned. any Ideas to fix them? I still have the manual out.
    '4x Conn Connsonata 2A2
    '6x L-133A
    '64 A-102
    '48 CV
    '69 Leslie 147RV (Non functioning reverb)
    '5x chopped M3 (M2 case M3 guts)
    '59 Leslie 25 (to be converted to 145)
    '5x M2 (plays fine looks horrible)

    Previous:
    '6x M-143 (Too rough of shape, parts), '5x M3 (found on side of road, parts), '81 kimball stardust (owner destroyed it to get up stairs; parts),
    '8x Hammond Aurora, A-102, M2 (now part of chop), another M2, Wurlitzer spinet, Wersi DX350, Thomas chordian

  2. #2
    Member jkrusel's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Guitarbro View Post
    While cleaning the manuals for my A-102 I took apart the keys to the lower manual thinking it would make it easier. now that I have put the manual back together the keys are misaligned. any Ideas to fix them? I still have the manual out.
    One problem with misalignment can come from not putting them back where they originally came from. Not only can upstop be affected but also the action. The upstop fingers need to be adjusted first, very carefully, and a little at a time until all the keytops are lined up. Then the tabs in the middle of the metal key channels need to be adjusted carefully so that all keys start to speak at the same time when pressed down. Lots of work here... You might get lucky if some of the worst ones are the same key, and you can shuffle them back into their original positions.

    Another cause of misalignment can come from not aligning the two studs next to the mounting screw with their respective holes when tightening the mounting screw. Picture, courtesy of Brendon Wright is below.

    Don't try to re-align by bending the springs!
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Jerry in Leslie, spinning around trying to find my way

    1990 Korg M1 - moved on to a new life
    1981 Lowrey MX-1
    1975 Lowrey TGS
    1973 Hammond T-524C w/mods
    1972 Hammond XTP - moved on
    1971 Gulbransen Premiere PR (1154)
    1965 Hammond E-133 w/mods - her name is Emmanuele, and we are in love

  3. #3
    Member Guitarbro's Avatar
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    I made sure they're all the original spot and the spring s are seated right. the tops are fine its the front edge that is the problem
    '4x Conn Connsonata 2A2
    '6x L-133A
    '64 A-102
    '48 CV
    '69 Leslie 147RV (Non functioning reverb)
    '5x chopped M3 (M2 case M3 guts)
    '59 Leslie 25 (to be converted to 145)
    '5x M2 (plays fine looks horrible)

    Previous:
    '6x M-143 (Too rough of shape, parts), '5x M3 (found on side of road, parts), '81 kimball stardust (owner destroyed it to get up stairs; parts),
    '8x Hammond Aurora, A-102, M2 (now part of chop), another M2, Wurlitzer spinet, Wersi DX350, Thomas chordian

  4. #4
    Member Bobmann's Avatar
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    I think that you have some keys where you installed the key spring with the screw washer on the wrong side...the washer needs to be under the screw head. It is easy to install wrong.

    Look at this: forward to 3:27
    http://www.youtube.com/user/bobmann1...21/luxvuQiidxQ

    Bob
    In theory, there is no difference between theory and reality.
    In reality, there is.
    '54 C-2 & Pair of 122 Leslies
    H-324/Series 10 TC
    '35 A-1 (Serial# 135) with a 21H
    Many other Hammonds

  5. #5
    Member jkrusel's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Guitarbro View Post
    I made sure they're all the original spot and the spring s are seated right. the tops are fine its the front edge that is the problem
    Are they IN too far, OUT too far or a mix? Did you happen to tighten some of the screws that hold the plastic key to the metal key channel while the keys were off? Did any springs get stretched while removing the keys? White keys can only be removed gently if the adjacent black keys are removed FIRST, otherwise you can distort the spring.

    Maybe loosen them all up and tighten from one end to the other while carefully holding in place and lined up?
    Jerry in Leslie, spinning around trying to find my way

    1990 Korg M1 - moved on to a new life
    1981 Lowrey MX-1
    1975 Lowrey TGS
    1973 Hammond T-524C w/mods
    1972 Hammond XTP - moved on
    1971 Gulbransen Premiere PR (1154)
    1965 Hammond E-133 w/mods - her name is Emmanuele, and we are in love

  6. #6
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    Hi,

    I've been lurking for a couple of months (my first post) but wanted to add my 2 cents since I had a similar issue last month when I did the keys on my A100. I separated all the lower manual plastics from the key channels and when I reassembled I discovered that there is some play in where the plastics sit on the channels. I had to loosen the screws under the channels and adjust the position of the plastics to get them back in line. I wound up using a metal yarstick as a reference to line up the key fronts.

    When I did the upper manual I didn't separate the plastics and just kept track of where they were.

    Hope this helps,
    Ken Mack
    60 A-100, 68 147RV, 77 247 w/122 amp, Motif ES8, DX7, Yamaha C-3 Grand

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by jkrusel View Post
    One problem with misalignment can come from not putting them back where they originally came from. Not only can upstop be affected but also the action. The upstop fingers need to be adjusted first, very carefully, and a little at a time until all the keytops are lined up. Then the tabs in the middle of the metal key channels need to be adjusted carefully so that all keys start to speak at the same time when pressed down. Lots of work here... You might get lucky if some of the worst ones are the same key, and you can shuffle them back into their original positions.

    Another cause of misalignment can come from not aligning the two studs next to the mounting screw with their respective holes when tightening the mounting screw. Picture, courtesy of Brendon Wright is below.

    Don't try to re-align by bending the springs!
    Make sure you have the lock washer on the outside of the key/spring next to the nut, not between the spring and the chassis.
    Otherwise the spring won't align correctly with the two locking tabs.

  8. #8
    Member jkrusel's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by kdm View Post
    Hi,

    I've been lurking for a couple of months (my first post) but wanted to add my 2 cents since I had a similar issue last month when I did the keys on my A100. I separated all the lower manual plastics from the key channels and when I reassembled I discovered that there is some play in where the plastics sit on the channels. I had to loosen the screws under the channels and adjust the position of the plastics to get them back in line. I wound up using a metal yarstick as a reference to line up the key fronts.

    When I did the upper manual I didn't separate the plastics and just kept track of where they were.

    Hope this helps,
    Ken Mack
    Welcome, Ken, you should not have been so shy... As I tell folks on a dog-oriented forum I frequent, we don't bite here, we just might sniff a little...

    Most of the time when I replace white keys I need to adjust with the screws between the plastic and metal, at least a little. Never really noticed it on the black keys of course. The trick is to snug the screws just enough so you can move the plastic key top into proper alignment after you put it on, but tight enough so you can still take it back off to finally tighten them.
    Jerry in Leslie, spinning around trying to find my way

    1990 Korg M1 - moved on to a new life
    1981 Lowrey MX-1
    1975 Lowrey TGS
    1973 Hammond T-524C w/mods
    1972 Hammond XTP - moved on
    1971 Gulbransen Premiere PR (1154)
    1965 Hammond E-133 w/mods - her name is Emmanuele, and we are in love

  9. #9
    Member Guitarbro's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jkrusel View Post
    Most of the time when I replace white keys I need to adjust with the screws between the plastic and metal, at least a little. Never really noticed it on the black keys of course. The trick is to snug the screws just enough so you can move the plastic key top into proper alignment after you put it on, but tight enough so you can still take it back off to finally tighten them.
    That is what I was talking about.
    '4x Conn Connsonata 2A2
    '6x L-133A
    '64 A-102
    '48 CV
    '69 Leslie 147RV (Non functioning reverb)
    '5x chopped M3 (M2 case M3 guts)
    '59 Leslie 25 (to be converted to 145)
    '5x M2 (plays fine looks horrible)

    Previous:
    '6x M-143 (Too rough of shape, parts), '5x M3 (found on side of road, parts), '81 kimball stardust (owner destroyed it to get up stairs; parts),
    '8x Hammond Aurora, A-102, M2 (now part of chop), another M2, Wurlitzer spinet, Wersi DX350, Thomas chordian

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