Results 1 to 8 of 8

Thread: Hammond B-3 Key replacement

  1. #1

    Hammond B-3 Key replacement

    How do you replace a cracked key top and bottom manuel on B-3? what needs to come off to get to them?

  2. #2
    Moderator Brendon Wright's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    New Zealand
    Posts
    7,135

    Cor, its been a while since I've been in my one...
    It IS described in the service manual:
    http://www.archive.org/details/Hammo...iesB3A-100RtDG

    but if I recall, you unscrew the music rack, left and right the screws are fairly obvious, then if I haven't missed a step out you can see the backs of the upper manual keys... get a.. er... is it 6mm socket on there? Can't remember... you only have to loosen the screw to remove the key. When you put the replacement on you have to make sure the two small studs at left and right on the screw are seated properly.

    Then, to get to the lower manual the Upper is held on by two very long bolts which come out to nuts under the bottom of the organ. There may be a couple of more small screws but I don't recall. You'll need a book or a lunchbox or something to prop the UM up while you're messing with the LM.

    However, if someone else doesn't fill in the detail, I can look it up for you! You can also check it in the manual...
    -1958 Hofner 550 archtop guitar -1959 C3 and PR40- -1964 Busillachio Harmonium- -1964 M101-
    -1967ish Leslie 122- -1975 T500 (modded..chopped, and reassembled!)-
    -DIY 760 FrankenLeslie/rat hideout-
    -1980 Electrokey Electric Piano- -Yamaha electric Harmonium (early 80's?)-
    -1990 Jansen GMF150 amp- -1992 Korg 01W/fd- -1992 G&L S-500 geetar.

  3. #3

    And danger or what to look for when you lift the manuel up? My friend did it and the entire lower manuel didn't work after he lifted one of the manuels up.

  4. #4

    *any danger

  5. #5
    Moderator Brendon Wright's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    New Zealand
    Posts
    7,135

    Unfortunately no one else has chimed in!
    Just be conscious of any wires you might pull or crush when you're working in there. Don't be rough on the old girl!
    Do you need me to dig out the section from the service manual?
    I've also got photos of the back of the keys if you need help, but I didn't take pics when I went in the C3, alas.
    -1958 Hofner 550 archtop guitar -1959 C3 and PR40- -1964 Busillachio Harmonium- -1964 M101-
    -1967ish Leslie 122- -1975 T500 (modded..chopped, and reassembled!)-
    -DIY 760 FrankenLeslie/rat hideout-
    -1980 Electrokey Electric Piano- -Yamaha electric Harmonium (early 80's?)-
    -1990 Jansen GMF150 amp- -1992 Korg 01W/fd- -1992 G&L S-500 geetar.

  6. #6
    Moderator Brendon Wright's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    New Zealand
    Posts
    7,135

    If you can afford 50 bucks, this ebook will give you brilliant pictorial step by step to do everything on the C3: http://hammondb3andleslietips.com/
    -1958 Hofner 550 archtop guitar -1959 C3 and PR40- -1964 Busillachio Harmonium- -1964 M101-
    -1967ish Leslie 122- -1975 T500 (modded..chopped, and reassembled!)-
    -DIY 760 FrankenLeslie/rat hideout-
    -1980 Electrokey Electric Piano- -Yamaha electric Harmonium (early 80's?)-
    -1990 Jansen GMF150 amp- -1992 Korg 01W/fd- -1992 G&L S-500 geetar.

  7. #7
    Moderator Brendon Wright's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    New Zealand
    Posts
    7,135

    However, general gist from that book is remove the bolts under the organ, not the generator locking bolts, the other ones under the manuals.
    THEN there are two big black screws on the drawbar base: near the vibrato tabs one one side and the percussion tabs on the other side.
    Next remove the four screws holding the music rack to the organ: two are by the start/run switch, and two on the other end.
    He also says to take off the black front strip between the two manuals (with the hammond logo on it), careful not to scratch the cabinet with it....

    He also recommends to put something soft on the keys and pull the music rack forward onto it. I put mine back on the cabinet myself, but again, it can scratch the cabinet.
    Get something 6 to 8 inches tall, like a video case or a book or something and prop the upper manual up with it.

    actually, for good measure, here's my pic of the back of the manuals on my T500:



    you can see I've removed the white keys and their screws/bolts are only loosened, not removed. Each side of those screws are the positioning studs you have to be careful to have seated properly. I usually tighten the key up until its firm (Ah! It all comes back!) then wiggle it until the studs slip into the holes.
    Let me know if there's any difficulty, and write us a report up for future B3 DIYers!
    The searchable stuff from the archives here are hard to find after the site shifted servers, so we need to document stuff afresh for future searches...
    Spotcha soon!
    -Brendoon
    -1958 Hofner 550 archtop guitar -1959 C3 and PR40- -1964 Busillachio Harmonium- -1964 M101-
    -1967ish Leslie 122- -1975 T500 (modded..chopped, and reassembled!)-
    -DIY 760 FrankenLeslie/rat hideout-
    -1980 Electrokey Electric Piano- -Yamaha electric Harmonium (early 80's?)-
    -1990 Jansen GMF150 amp- -1992 Korg 01W/fd- -1992 G&L S-500 geetar.

  8. #8
    Member Tim_at_Jonas's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Indianapolis, IN
    Posts
    522

    Once the music rack is out of the way and the manual bolts are out, lift the end nearest the broken key, and slip a 1" thick piece of wood between the manuals. This should give you enough space to get the key out and in.

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •